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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Laguna, PL1, cook brothers, xcalibur, powerlite, suntour dia compe
  2. 5 points
    Been a while but back building again - blew the dust off some long awaited projects and put this one together to kick things back off. I'd always been in love with the 2 Team completes in the 1979/80 mongoose catalogue and did my blue candy full size team back in 2011, so I just had to do the mini in red...... 1979 Team Minigoose frame and Team forks re-candied red Araya 7c re-anodised rims with NOS Shimano casette hubs NOS Shimano Dura Ace cranks NOS MKS BM-1 pedals (hard to find these puppies) NOS Oakley 2 grips Mongoose gold stem Mongoose headset Mongoose seat clamp Minigoose alloy bars re-anodised Survivor alloy seat-post Restored Shimano Tourney brake set with NOS Shimano clips, cables, ferrules and blocks. Restored mongoose kashimax suede Team seat NOS Hwa Fong snakebelly tyres (not the most desireable but they are OG old rubber with the right tread pattern and match the ones on my full size team - goose snakes are well.... yeah) So, then...... Couldn't resist taking a few snaps of her with her big sister......... Red and blue back together as they should be....... Hope you like 'em - I'm really pleased.
  3. 3 points
    Oct 79 BMXplus describes raw mild steel STR-1
  4. 2 points
    Hey y’all so last weekend wile driving to an estate sale (that had nothing) I spotted this on the side of the road. A 16 bike old school bike rack. So yesterday wile sorting my bike stuff I thought what the hell lol and brought all the guns out to the show.
  5. 2 points
    Here’s another early example I just picked up...
  6. 2 points
    Hi. I’m new to the site and could use some expert help some parts. I purchased this survivor from someone in my neighborhood. I want to keep it as is, the grips were melting off as I touched then so they are gone. I’m pretty sure this is a Cooks Bros. Stem gen. 1 from 79’ ? The seat clamp I’ve only seen this shape on a 1980? Redline Proline. any info would be greatly appreciated.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Decided to take the advice from previous comments and just clean the frame and replace needed part with period correct components. Pics of progress to follow.
  9. 2 points
    X-Caliber for the weight watchers, Suntour for the dollar watchers. Laguna has the over engineered market covered. Cool little article.
  10. 2 points
    I’m a noob and stuck on what this seat clamp is? Closest I’ve seen is a Redline Proline Clamp. It’s original on the bike but no stickers or stamps. Anyone know what it is???
  11. 2 points
    I think I will probably come out of this with at least a few of the frames that I care about. I sold my Pinarello Montello and a large chunk of my vintage Campy collection yesterday to a local, and have a campsite and storage sorted for a month or so. June and July will be downsize and sell off, and repairing my Jeep. Anyone in the market for a custom 1978 CB750 cafe? Vintage audio? Studio equipment? Imma be a selling fool for a minute. Thanks for the kind words and messages you guys. This has always been a tight knit caring community, and I've been proud to consider you all friends for most of this current century.
  12. 2 points
    So this happened 2 days ago. Piped up on the market place and well here she is. The get told me his mom bought him this bike when he was 14 and told him what ever part he wanted was his. Well fast forward all these years and he tossed it up and some how I wound up with it. Now I only need to clean it up and ride it!
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    With the help From Brian Hays authenticating my frames and then Turning me onto waza in Australia for decals both my bikes are done riding and have the correct decals even hit a few of the early SE Race devision ones made for my PK and big PK Rippers
  15. 2 points
    One of our principle considerations is Bob himself. Our guest of honor, Bob Osborn is a robust 82 years old. Bob is a badass. Despite his vigor, we must acknowledge the fact that this Covid 19 preys on his demographic. I know we'll all agree with no hesitation... we aren't doing anything to put this guy at risk. That ain't happening. What a special person, an artist, an old school frontier philosopher and documentarian type... and he happily allows us to claim him for BMX. He's so humble about it all, but he must have some sense of how the very DNA of BMX is replete with Bob Osborn and Wizard Publications genes. The guy is a treasure. Anyway - long live Oz and we'll see him when we see him. https://youtu.be/mdty2s_0ayk
  16. 1 point
    Ok , hoping the true OS guys can help me on these box bars, who manufactured or sold these ? Anodized red, NO knurling (like the triple knurled DG bars) very nice quality and near mint.
  17. 1 point
    Cool bike. Proper cleaning is key to maintaining value.
  18. 1 point
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  21. 1 point
    Dig the bike rack. Wish I had the space for it.
  22. 1 point
    That bike is fire!! The ring is cooler than a polar bears toe nails too.
  23. 1 point
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  25. 1 point
    I have what i think is a 1983 shadow frame sp1039. its in good condition but with a little patina to the chrome, I've had it hanging up in the garage for 15 years and many other BMX have come and gone but for some reason i just kept hold of this one. It's about time I did something with it. My question is what would be the parts used on the race bikes BITD, Im guessing with the link to CW they might be similar. any suggestions
  26. 1 point
    Hope my math is wrong but that article is almost 41 years old. I'm getting old but the bike is timeless.
  27. 1 point
    Hello everybody, I am new person in this forum. I am good riding lover. I love freestyle a lot myself – This inspires me to select the BMX freestyle bike for stunts. I used to freestyle in my college days and it was unlimited fun with my friends.
  28. 1 point
    Interesting article. Then as now I do not fully understand why one would purchase a heavier part when for similar money a light part does the same job. The Suntour unit is a good bang for the buck and the Laguna is as noted above.
  29. 1 point
    Ya, I think its a good trade too.
  30. 1 point
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  32. 1 point
    I think you did well on that deal..nice
  33. 1 point
    Super cool! I’ve never seen this article before. Thanks for posting it.
  34. 1 point
    The seatpost clamp does look like the clamps on a redline stem. The bolt holes don’t go all the way through so you know it’s not from a stem. Cool!
  35. 1 point
    Cool bike. The first gen Cook Bros stem was out as early as 1976 as shown in a dec 76/ Jan 77 BMXA mag
  36. 1 point
    First item up on ebay, red ACS Z Rims, with SUZUE Sealed-Tech hubs (chrome)and Wheelsmith 14ga stainless spokes and nipples, by wheel master Phouc Pham. Built from all NOS parts, super low use, unstamped rear, with no break pad marks, stamped front rim. Hit me with questions here, will be happy to pull listing for anyone here who can do $350 shipped. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Old-School-Vintage-BMX-ACS-Z-rims-SUZUE-sealed-tech-hubs-1983-20-X1-75-WS-spokes/254633285860
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Starting to build my BOSS Prime Time. Maybe finish it when I have more time. So far is has BOSS frame, fork, bars, cranks, and sprocket plate. Sprocket is Tuf-Neck, stem is Profile, and pedals are Odyssey Triple Trap. Brakes are new school BOX. I have Dia-Compes brakes but not digging the gold right now
  39. 1 point
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  42. 1 point
    Well still working on the stuck post (Clamp is loose) lol but DAM ! The chrome is insane.
  43. 1 point
    Hello People. I just started a Facebook page titled "A&A Racing Frames Collector's Forum." Please check it out and share some OS A&A bikes if you want. Thanks!
  44. 1 point
    Lucky kid back then. Lucky you now. Nice looking race rig.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Looks really good for it’s age. I’m sure it will look great once you get done with it. That looks like a nice fishing hole in the background. Makes me want to break out my fishing gear
  47. 1 point
    sweet. I need a GHP
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Just like electrical wire, the lower the #, the thicker the wire. Spoke technology has come a long way. For all intended purposes, when buying spokes you're pretty much gonna deal with 10 thru 17 gauge spokes. Theres bladed spokes, double butted (thick at the ends and thin in the middle), straight gauge (same thickes throughout), carbon fiber & straight pull (they don't have the j-bend at the end for use with special hubs. There's just as many variations on the nipples as well, length, brass, aluminum alloy, hex head, splined, self securing. For those special conversions there's also spoke washers and nipple washers. Spoke washers for using smaller gauge spokes in large holed hubs, and nipple washers for helping seat the nipples in the inside curve of some rims. For most BMX applications your gonna stick with straight gauge 10,12 or 14 gauge in varying lengths. Older really heavy, heavy duty rims will use the super thick 10 almost like motorcycle spokes. Most heavy duty rims, like older Schwinn Cruisers will probably use the thick 12 gauge. The majority of rims on most 20" BMX will most likely use 14 gauge. If you're building a wheel and you have some spokes that are too short, sometimes you can make them work by using longer nipples. You can also make your spokes longer by reducing the number of times that you cross them. If you do a 2x then the spokes will be shortest, if you do a 3x (most common) it will require a longer spoke, and 4x will require the longest spoke. So, if you are lacing up a rim two cross (not very common) and the spokes poke through the rim a lot, you could try lacing it up three cross, then you would see that the spokes don't poke through the rim as much. If you have built up a wheel and you are happy with it, but the spokes poke through the nipple head way too much, so much so they could pierce the tube, you would use a spoke nipper, a special cutter that cuts the end of the spokes after the wheel is laced. Sometimes this requires finishing as it may still leave a sharpened edge, so you would need to file, or dremel them down with a grinding bit. This is fine too, but makes it almost impossible to dissasemble and reuse the spokes in the future. Using used spokes!? Not recommended, but this hobbies about scrounging! We're not Nasa here, so go ahead and reuse anything you can. Spoke length? Are you building for light weight or strength? A radial laced wheel will have the shortest spoke length possible and the shortest nipple all to reduce weight, but will not be as strong. A 4x laced wheel will be super strong, but will have more material and be heavier. Want a heavy duty strong wheel, but not super heavy duty? Then try a thinner gauge spoke. Depends really on your application. So you have some cool spokes from a 26" and you want to use them on your 24" or 20" wheel? No problem. No need to cut and rethread, you can wrap or twist them around each other. Not very conventional, but produces a cool effect. If there's a will, there's a way. Spokes too thick? No problem, drill out the holes in the hub flange or drill out the holes in the rim. Remember, it's only NOS once. So finally, get yourself a spoke ruler. It has inches and mm for those quick length conversions and a diameter checker. Learn to use it correctly. This tool is less than $10 and invaluable! For the beginner or pro. Makes rebuilding a breeze. If you're simply relacing with new spokes all you need do is pull one spoke and measure length. Then reorder new spokes. Really speeds things up if your replacing, you only need one spoke intact, then you can just snip the rest and you've dissasembled your wheel in 60 seconds! Beware of snipping, those suckers can fly when cut under tension. Also, if you're using different hub/rim combos when rebuilding, it may require a different length. Uh, oh.. ordered the wrong length? See above, modify build with longer or shorter nipples, lace using a different cross pattern, try a different hub with bigger or smaller flanges, wrap or twist the spokes, cut and rethread, or nip the end after building and dress the end.
  50. 1 point
    from sheldon's site... Gauge A measuring instrument, most commonly in bicycle contexts, a device for measuring the air pressure in a tire. A measurement of thickness, particularly of wire. The major use of gauges in bicycle technology is for spokes. There are several different national systems of gauge sizes, and this has been a great cause of confusion. A particular problem is that French gauge numbers are smaller for thinner wires, while the U.S./British gauge numbers are larger for thinner wires. The crossover point is right in the popular range of sizes used for bicycle spokes: U.S./British 14 gauge is the same as French 13 gauge U.S./British 13 gauge is the same as French 15 gauge Newer I.S.O. practice is to ignore gauge numbers, and refer to spokes by their diameter in millimeters, usually rounded to the nearest tenth of a millimeter.: U.S./British 13 gauge is 2.3 mm U.S./British 14 gauge is 2.0 mm U.S./British 15 gauge is 1.8 mm U.S./British 16 gauge is 1.6 mm U.S./British 17 gauge is 1.4 mm The gauge system is basically obsolete as explained in this excerpt from "Machinery's Handbook" 21st edition, 1980 p463: WIRE AND SHEET METAL GAGES The thickness of sheet metals and the diameters of wires conform to various gaging systems. These gage sizes are indicated by numbers and the following tables give the decimal equivalents of the different gage numbers.Much confusion has resulted from the use of gage numbers and in ordering materials it is preferable to give the exact dimensions in decimal fractions of an inch... [millimeters preferred nowadays-SB ] ...the decimal method of indicating wire diameters ...has the advantage of being self-explanatory, whereas arbitrary gage numbers are not. The decimal system of indicating gage sizes is now being used quite generally, and gage numbers are gradually being discarded. Unfortunately there is is considerable variation in the use for different gages. For example a gage commonly used for copper, brass and other non-ferrous metals may at times be used for steel, and vice versa... The wire gage system used by practically all the steel producers in the United States is known by the name Steel Wire Gage or to distinguish if from the Standard Wire Gage (S.W.G.) used in Great Britain it is called he United States Steel Wire Gage. It is the same as the Washburn and Moen, American Steel and Wire Company, and Roebling Wire Gages. The name has the official sanction of the Bureau of Standards at Washington, but is not legally effective. The only gage which has been recognized in Acts of Congress is the Birmingham Gage...the Birmingham Gage is, however, nearly obsolete both in the United States and in Great Britain, where it originated... In Great Britain one wire gage has been legalized. This is called the Standard Wire Gage (S.W.G.), formerly called Imperial Wire Gage. The U.S. system, S.W.G. and Birmingham gages are all the same for 15 gage, 0.72" (1.8288 mm.)