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sam hudson

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About sam hudson

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  1. Just to add,There was a test of the Streak in BMX Plus magazine Dec 1982. http://www.23mag.com/mags/bpl/bpl.htm This is nt a link to the article but to the page with the magazine on it(scroll down a bit). Has anyone got a scan???
  2. Thanks guys. I recieved a copy of BMX action bike(which was the uk's big bmx magazine).The review of the Streak from that states that its a cro mo frame. The standard set up in the uk was oakley F1 copy grips and a 1 piece crank. I guess that the magazine could have been mistaken about the steel rear triangle if DB didnt mention it to them when they delivered the bike. Its not the end of the world or anything,its still a great bike-i just want to clear it up as i was clearly 'deluded by Db cro mo' as a child!! :6: This is a pic of me on my streak as a kid.I was lucky enough to buy a virtually stock Streak 6 months ago,which originally came from a guy on your side of the pond I wish i hadnt sold my original streak in 1985,not only because it was my first 'real racing' bmx but also because i had the original padset which is worth a LOAD of cash now :22: Well thanks again for your help guys.If any one has any further items from magazines i think we'd all like to see them. :18:
  3. Thats the same sheet that i mentioned.If you notice,the spec for the crank is three peice,wheras the cranks were one piece. The streaks were sold as cr-mo and the vipers half cr mo.Its all strange. Anyone got BMX action review? Thing is,that spec(above)was from Sandy,and that man WAS Db. Thanks guys. :24:
  4. Powder coating frames is a popular way to 'paint' frames.Lots of people swear by it.I had some components powder coated and it was a disaster.Too thick,teardrop runs (which is supposed to be impossible). If you are going to get it powdered make sure they are good,get a recommendation from someone whos had a frame done first.If its got the slightest imperfection in the coat it can chip and theres no way to repair it,you have to start again.(if you want a good finish). If Auto paint is so bad why do car maunfacturers not powdercoat the majority of cars? Maybe its too expensive,i dunno. I wouldnt touch powder,but then ive had a bad experience with it,lots of people have had nothing but good experiences with it.its just too thick for my liking.
  5. Hi Guys I posted this in another thread but i think that thread is old now and not being read. I was always under the assumption that the Silver Streak was 100% Cr-mo.Now a very well informed fella has told me that the rear triangle was steel.He showed me an early spec sheet that Sandy had drawn up. Now the thing is,magazines at the time definately stated that the streak was ALL cr-mo,and the fact that the Viper was out at the same time and had the steel rear,says to me that it doesnt make sense to have two similar spec'ed contempary(although different quality construction) bikes by the same company. Also.On the spec that Sandy sent this guy,it says that the Streak had a three peice crank.Is this a U.S. spec? All the uk bikes had a one piece cr-mo crank. So i dont know if the spec that Sandy sent was a very early one which was changed later or whether the uk bikes had a different spec to the U.S. bikes. This isnt life or death but it would be interesting to clear it up. Any help,gratefully recieved :14:
  6. Hi Guys I'm having a little debate about whether the Silver Streak frame was ALL Cr-mo.Now i remember the Viper being half steel,half cr-mo but i was sure that the Streak was 100% Cr-mo. Any ideas? :24: Thanks
  7. :32: Thanks for that,i am ordering as we speak.Lots of us over here in the uk want to start making pads as they are just too damn expensive to buy now,nos or 2nd hand. Someone should start repro-ing them as a business....they would get trade. Thanks again
  8. :21: Thanks man.You have no idea how londg i have waited to get some sense from someone. It has to be achieveable if i can find the people with the expensive machinery. Thanks again. Sam :18:
  9. Try posting that question on our UK site Radbmx.co.uk There are one or two Db experts that will know the answer.
  10. :24: Guys,i wonder if you can help me out?? I've been trying to source the material that pads outer skin is made from but i've had no luck.Do you guys know what its called? I cant get anywhere? I've decided to start making my old pads as i need a red letter diamond back set for a streak and an se set and a Raleigh Team burner set and collectively it would cost me a FORTUNE to buy Nos. I just cant get any help with materials and where to buy. it seems to be a closely guarded secret over here in the uk. :cry: Any help would be V gratefully recieved. thanks Sam
  11. Sad news.I only knew him through his threads that he posted.Lots of respect to him from us British lot on our radbmx site. Having just lost a parent myself,my thoughts go out to his family and friends. xxx l.o.l Sam
  12. Have those been laquered?They are so nice it would be a shame to see them tarnish...they look look they've been chromed. :14:
  13. :18: Thanks for those tips guys.I was with you on the dropout savers from Vintage.They are a bit huge but would cover up my badly dinged(and i think trimmed)dropouts a treat.I would prefer a set of unmarked Lgear but these came with the bike and i assume they are the forks that came with the frame. Thanks for advice on welding...i'll get looking in yellow pages. The original colour was the darker blue,seen here in a pic i got from Ebay.Does anyone know a paint code for this??? Normal old fasioned spraying paint...not powder. But i always wanted a baby blue one ,like this (in another 'borrowed pic') Decisions decisions
  14. Ok guys ,you said to look for seatpost cracks in the Ripper,here is a small one: What now? Just get it welded closed? Here is pic of blasted frame and cleaned up Lgear. i'm gonna paint it,its original dark metallic blue colour.i like it. :32: Found the Pk serial number,its all legit...hurrah.
  15. Bleach it...a lot.Its the old Tuffs method.Cheap THIN bleach from supermarket.Cover the seat completely with the bleach and leave it for a few days..Not sure what will happen to the side logo and you should try to remove the rear decal. You will NEVER get it sparkley white like it used to be...but it will be better. Oh,yeah,best to do it in a well ventilated area...fumes and all that.
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