Jump to content


Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by keep_it_warm

  1. I really like the plate too. I actually thought about lifting the Kuwahara decal off and replacing with SE, but I decided to leave it as-is. Race-used with moto stickers on it. There even a "double points" sticker on it.
  2. Last fall I picked up this frame set and wheel set from a seller in California. He purchased a complete bike from the original owner in Lake Havasu City, Arizona. I cleaned up the pieces and rebuilt it up the way I thought it would look good. Built to resemble the manner in which any kid might have ridden it in 1982. I’m happy with how it turned out. Original everything... Parts breakdown: FRAME: SE Racing PK Ripper FORK: Landing Gear HEADSET: Tange STEM: Tuf Neck BARS: SE Racing Powerwing GRIPS: Oakley .5 SEAT CLAMP: Excalibur SEAT POST: unknown (I believe MCS) SADDLE: Kashimax MX PEDALS: Shimano DX CRANKS: Takagi MX SPIDER: Takagi CHAIN RING: Shimano RIMS: 7C/7X HUBS: Bullseye TIRES: Comp 3 yellow label BRAKE: Dia-Compe MX900 BRAKE PADS: Kool Stop LEVER: Tech 3 CABLE: Terrycable PADS: California Lite PLATE: Haro Type 2 Picture below showing as-found from original owner...
  3. Wow! Very nice Brian. Congrats on the pickup! I noticed the forks immediately in the first picture...but im no expert, so I hope they are NOT bent. Really really cool. Looking forward to progress pictures.
  4. Yes. It's just a really neat looking bike. It was (in my opinion) dirt cheap, so I snapped it up....knowing I was not planning to dump any money into it. Super-cool to look at and have in the basement with the other bikes.
  5. Also, could this be after-market chrome? I ask because there is no (legible) serial number under the BB. If the chrome is after-market...it's OLD, because of the amount of rust that was on this thing.
  6. Yes, agreed. The bars would be the first thing I would replace. Seat as well...I’m with you. I used the Cinelli for now because it works with the Ashtabula finishes on the bike and it’s from the correct era.
  7. Thanks Craig. I couldn’t pass it up after we agreed to a price that was way less than he had it marked for. I figured I couldn’t lose with the stem, cranks, forks and wheels.
  8. Recently, at the Crown Point, Indiana show, there was a “70’s Webco” complete for sale. I stopped by the sellers table many times over the course of the day, trying to find out why no one had purchased it for the very reasonable asking price. Toward the end of the show, I was examining the bike again and I noticed the chainstay had a nasty repair done to it at some point in its lifetime. We came to a deal on the price and I purchased it. I was really happy, because it had some really cool parts on it. I took the entire bike apart and went over it with nevr-dull and 0000 steel wool. I think it came out great! Some of the heavily rusted areas are pitted, so it does still show some character, but 95% of the rust is gone. The seat post was stuck. I had my LBS remove it and it turned out to be solid steel weighing in at just under 2 pounds. I used some rough steel wool hooked to a power drill to clean out the seat post tube. I was finally able to install a normal 7/8 post and ditch the cheap vinyl seat. Instead, I was able to use the Cinelli Unicanitor saddle I have (I love this seat). I added some old vinyl pads and it’s done! Since all the dated components were 1978, I’m calling this a 1978 bike. Mucho Moto 4 Minimal Moolah! Parts breakdown: FRAME: Webco Replica FORK: Ashtabula HEADSET: Schwinn STEM: Ashtabula BARS: V-Bar GRIPS: Dorcy SEAT CLAMP: Steel SEAT POST: old, chrome SADDLE: Cinelli Unicanitor PEDALS: rat trap CRANKS: Ashtabula SPROCKET: Webco 44 RIMS: UKAI steel 2.125 HUBS: ACS (f)/ Bendix high-flange black coaster (r) TIRES: Cheng Shin (f) / Carlisle Aggressor 300 (r) PADS: Vinyl snap
  9. Thank you guys. I appreciate the comments. I walk on a treadmill in my basement daily. I have this bike positioned directly in front of the treadmill. Staring at it 7-9 hours per week...lol. My only regret is selling the red one all those years ago. I would love to have them side by side.
  10. Sorry about the goofy spots in the pics. I like the portrait setting on iPhone, but there are always those tight areas that dont really turn out correct.
  11. The blue one the frame and fork is amazing! Thanks guys. I really enjoying building these again! Loving it!
  12. In May, 2019, I picked up this incredibly beautiful original finish 1979 Standard Long. According to the certificate, it was originally sold to a shop in California near the Nevada border. That shop is still in business today. I contacted them to verify that they were the same shop as identified on the JMC Certificate. While the owner couldn't verify specifically that he sold the bike, he did confirm that they have been in business since the 1970's and did sell BMX in the late 70's era. Over the decades, the frame ended up on the east coast and was eventually paired up with the bladed forks for a perfect color and condition match. The blue is vibrant with only minimal wear throughout the frameset. The rear dropouts do show some chipping, but nothing that detracts from the overall condition. It's in incredible condition for a 40+ year old frameset. Some may remember that I built a red JMC back in 2009. I always kind of regretted selling. So, eleven years have passed between the two bikes, and incredibly, they are only 39 frames apart. Red = JMC1191 Blue = JMC1230 The red JMC weighed heaviIy on my mind. I loved that bike and I knew that some components would be similar. I wanted to look for super-clean, used examples of all components to compliment the condition of the frame. I changed my mind many times over the past year regarding the parts I wanted to use, but this is what appeals most to me. I'm very happy with it. BY THE WAY: I would be extremely happy to find two (or even ONE) JMC Racing down tube decals that are not rub-ons. If anyone has a set of white on clear mylar originals (or even Jim's older reissues from 10+ years ago), please contact me. Identical to the fork leg decals. PART LIST: FRAME - JMC1230 Large Airfoil FORK - JMC bladed HEADSET - Tange MX HANDLEBARS - Redline Proline STEM - Redline GRIPS - Oakley 2 CRANKS - Campagnolo BOTTOM BRACKET - Cook Brothers PEDALS - Bob Reedy CHAIN - HKK Smoker SEAT CLAMP - Excaliber SEAT POST - Fluted SEAT - Elina Super-Pro HUBS - Campy (Paramount drilled) AXLES, NUTS,LOCK NUTS - Campy FREEWHEEL - Suntour 17T RIMS - 7B / 7C TIRES - Carlisle Aggressor MX / Cycle Pro Snakebelly BRAKE CALIPER - Shimano Tourney BRAKE PADS - Mathauser BRAKE LEVER - Dia-Compe Gold Dot PADS - Vinyl snap PLATE - Hunt Wilde rectangle (same plate from 2009)
  13. It's cool to hear the discussion, but damn, they do put you on the spot to rattle off prices and values for a variety of things. LOL Make sure you post again the next time you are on there.
  14. Yes, I am excited about the early cranks on the bike. I wanted to find a set years ago, but the prices at the time were quite high....not to mention the fact that they seldom show up for sale. So, yes, it's definitely an added bonus. They are first generation 185's
  15. That's really nice Brian. As Steve mentioned, I love the bars!
  16. ...and no mention of Moosegoose Nick. "Graceful and Elegant"
  17. I just read everything again. Just as amazing as the first time. These ‘deep dive’ posts are all-timers. Thanks again for posting.