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BOMAT_1

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Everything posted by BOMAT_1

  1. Hi guys... Sorry it's been so long,but I HAVE been in both the hospital (for surgery) and then a Care & Rehab Center from January 1 until May 26. I developed a Venus Stasis ulcer in my left calf which became infectious that was removed on January 1. Doctors told me they removed nearly a liter of fluid & other crud during the operation. I didn't realize HOW sick I was before finally heeding my wife's urgings to go to the hospital...but now,given what I've learned and seen,I'm convinced that IF I hadn't finally listened to her-when I did-I would probably have died! Of course this has turned up 'a few' other problems,all being looked after now...so I'm now just a 'sick 70 year old man!' Thank God for Medicare & Medicade, the week in Harborview Hospital was almost $59K,and the Care Center was over $1K a month! Lots of therapy involved...almost had to 'learn to walk' again,but am on the way back now. Thanks to all in the hobby that may have wondered 'where I was!' I appreciate your caring. I will eventually be able to contact the guys that I regularly was in communication with...but not sure how long it'll take. My energy levels seem to fade faster these days and still am bothered by Lymphedema in both legs,which may or may not prove to be surmountable! Time will tell! Anybody who wants to Email me (mathergolf@comcast.net)-rather than waiting for me to contact them-please feel free to do so. That'll get you a faster response! By the way,did Thorn Smith's 26" Nomura win BOTY Cruiser? Thanks Guys... Bob
  2. IMO, if you are local to True Radius Bending, you should confirm that they did the repair and when and then decide from there. I hate to rain on anybody's parade...but nowhere in any of my Nomura records is there 'any indication' that this frame-NRC DG 010-was ever actually a factory race frame! The Production Logs indicate that the original owner was a man named Bill Carson...and that the bike was a 'street rider' and NOT a Factory frame! As for Mr. Carson himself,none of Wade's race team listings mention him ever being an actual FACTORY RIDER! As far as the repair is concerned,I don't believe that Dave Gilkeson would have made this repair personally-without actually hearing him say that he did! TRB and Gilkison are within a few miles of each other,and I believe they still have a relationship that would have precluded such a shabby repair having been made by EITHER shop! Wade's Log says there were only 7 black 26" frames built originally...and that only 3 were factory race frames...NRC DG 028 and NRC DG 018 have been located and fully-restored! The 3rd Black frame has NOT been located...and,again,I can find no substantiation ANYWHERE that NRC DG 010 is the last frame! Make your own decision! HAPPY HOLIDAYS to all!
  3. Thornton... I know I've said this before,but everytime I see your bike I think the exact same thing-all over again! This is EASILY the BEST LOOKING 26" Nomura I've ever seen! If it doesn't win BOTY,then there's no justice in the world! When I finally get the plate to you,it'll be 'icing on the cake'...and your bike will be perfect! GREAT JOB! Ciao, Bob
  4. Mark... Yes,there was a 'local' association in operation when we started racing in 1979-I guess as well as the NBA! NBA or ABA members were allowed to run their official #'s & plates,while 'non-members' of either association ran with 'D' on their plates. The local association was primarily run by George O'Connor,Tommie Thompson, Jim Baugh and Doug Brown-Derek's father-and there were local tracks around the Denver area...the only 2 I remember now are Expo Park in Aurora and Adams Co. Fair Grounds in Commerce. The first ABA race in Denver was the 1980 Mile High Nationals.I was too old to race ABA races (I was 37 then and the maximum age was 29)so I put a local kid-John Alber,16 EXP-on my Littlejohn Team Replica 'Lowboy' and won the only Cruiser class they ran,beating 2 PROs-Mark Pippin (SE Racing)& Bobby Encinas (Shimano)to do it! The trophy he won was taller than he was! As far as I know,my bike was the first Littlejohn Cruiser to win a National Race title. Good times...great memories! I started out with #383,went to #88 and finally ended up with #2 in Adult Cruiser! When we got Washington,Cruisers weren't too popular here yet,so I retired and bought my Nomura! Never raced it,but it's still 'race ready!' WASH-1 was an ABA district...but the ABA hasn't used these designations for years!
  5. I've just looked at some old pictures...in 1979 we used 'D' on our plates. For the 1980 season,we DID change to the letter 'P'...I told you my eyes were old...evidently so is my mind?
  6. When my son & I raced in Denver in 1979 & 1980,our plates had the letter 'D' on them! We moved to Washington in 1981 where the plates had WASH-1 on them.
  7. I'd assume that a magnet would stick to a magnesium body,but NOT to an aluminum one? They look like magnesium to me...but my eyes are nearly 70! Bob
  8. Hopefully on your racing pants... Yes,Mr.Reilley...across the butt of my Vera's Leathers! Bob
  9. When I raced Cruisers in Denver (1979 & 1980)the wives of all my fellow racers-about 30 of us-gave a lot of the guys nicknames. Mine was 'The Silver Fox'...which I had emblazoned across my butt!
  10. As part of my 'on-going'Nomura research,I'd like to contact Kevin Nowak, Nomura's Michigan star rider from the early 80's! He rode out of a shop called Freewheeler Bike Shop in Grand Rapids,and he raced a 20" alloy frame,as well as both 26" & 26/24 Cruisers! I'm looking into the possibility that he MAY also have had one of the 4 'ultra rare' 24" Nomura frames! I've Emailed Gordy-Freewheeler's owner-but so far,he hasn't answered me! I think I remember someone here knowing him BITD...but I've lost his contact information as well! Hope somebody can help me out!? Email me if you can help...mathergolf@comcast.net Thanks, Bob
  11. So,Mr. Guru... How'd you do? Did your new stuff fit?
  12. So...Charley Do you know Ernie Ballard or not? Wrote you several months ago, but you never answered my letter? Would like to get in touch with 'Bugs' for some Nomura information! If you can help,I'd be grateful! Bob
  13. One other thing...he pronounced Scot's name 'very strangely'...it definately 'didn't sound' like he was saying BREITHAUPT to me!? Anybody else 'pick up' on that...OR understand 'what he was saying'''...reminded me of Donald...
  14. He said they're 1st Gen.LANDING GEARS...I don't think this is accurate! As far as I know the 1st Gen. were 'Cowboy Cuts' like Scot's first Cruiser forks were! 'Bologna Cuts'-on ANY size fork- would have been considered 2nd Gen.-as the 'Gen.#' increases each time a change is made. Drop out blades are also 'not in the right position'...and you can't see the 'cut outs' at the top of the axle slot for the fork washers!
  15. The axle slots are 'cut' to hold the washers...dead give away! Of course it's 'always possible' the seller is 'stupid enough' to THINK they're real...but NOT very likely! Just another scammer tryin' to screw somebody that he THINKS won't know the difference between 'real' & 'knock offs!'
  16. GREAT looking Cook Bros. bars... Perchance...are they For Sale? If so...how much? My pal has acquired another 26" Nomura...he might be interested...as his has a Cook Bros. 'slanted' Cruiser stem! Bob
  17. I guess it's allright to 'have opinions'-as long as I don't 'express them' huh? I will continue to pay my support fees and will answer 'any and all' communications that I may receive from the few friends that I've made here...but you have seen my last contribution to the site! I guess that I 'was taken in' by the site's name...Old School BMX! While it is true that I don't like any of the newer stuff,I respect other's 'right's to like it'...but until I read the above postings,I assumed that 'I had the right's to my feelings'-AND the right to express my feelings,as long as I 'didn't harm anyone or tell outright lies about anyone'-which I have NOT done! I wasn't aware that my opinions 'caused anyone REAL concern'...I may have been wrong! If so,then I apologize for that! I will NOT apologize for stating my opinions,as I have the right to do! I can't-or won't-change who I am! I've always assumed that the differences in our ages-mine versus 'most' of your's-didn't really matter all that much...I think I may have been wrong to assume that? As a result,I will keep my opinions to myself from now on! It's undoubtedly true that my 'entire BMX world revolves around the the bikes & parts I raced & used BITD'...I don't deny this...at all! Again,I may have 'been taken in' by the site's name...but that's just the way it is! Still and all,the bottom line seems to be that I 'upset' folks when I express my opinions...so I will 'no longer do so' in the open forums! As I've said,I WILL continue to communicate with those that may choose to contact me... but this will be my last contribution in this manner! Sorry if this means the 'Wade Nomura invented' thing may have to end...I never really understood your 'obsession' with that anyway! In my eyes it was FAR MORE 'disrespectful to Wade' than it was 'a good natured joke on me'-as MOST of you seem to view it anyway! Bob
  18. To my way of thinking,the ONLY way someone REALLY knows if an item-any item-is ACTUALLY NOS is if 'he/she has owned the item since it was purchased and knows it's been sitting in storage ever since!' Other than that,all you have is the seller's word about it's condition! Mint condition might also be 'looked upon' in much the same light! Original packaging is another indicator...but NOT necessarily a guarantee! If at all possible,visual 'hands on' inspection is the best indicator-also NOT always possible! In the end,it seems to me that 'how badly the buyer wants or needs the item' is the most important factor to be considered! How much does it 'really mean' that anything is really new-IF you NEED the part? You pays your money and takes your choice anyway...if you want it,can afford it and it 'fills the bill'-what difference does it really make if 'it's NOS, mint or whatever?' Sometimes we tend to overthink stuff...don't we? Happy New Year,Guys & Gals... Bob
  19. I agree with Capt. Nemo...the LOOK is cool...the fact that they aren't available in larger sizes ISN'T! I hate the 'little gear' shit! It LOOKS dumb...and I'll bet it 'isn't worth dick' to race with! Obviously they're trying to sell the 'old look' while 'playing to the current trend' of 'smaller is better!' BS if you ask me!
  20. Thanks for the GREAT pics,Mr.BadShot... Thanks,Michael for the info! I agree with you...the DX's are the BEST levers I've ever used! They'll work well on the 'CW-style' bars on my Grandson's bike too! Thanks again for the help guys! I appreciate it! Bob
  21. Mr.BadShot... Useful info...but I remember how to 'set up' & adjust the caliper itself...I just don't remember the 'fine points' of using the DX lever-and it's '2 position' adjustment feature! I was hoping someone here might use the same lever on their bike and be able to 'pass on' whatever they may have learned about 'setting one up!' I can't remember now if I ever even bothered to use 'either' of the 2 positions-adjusted by turning a screw head one way or the other-when I used this lever before! The levers come with 'adjusting screw' set between the 2 positions...and it worked well! I was 'just wondering' what effect moving the screw to either position MIGHT have,in terms of actual operation! As old as these handles are,I doubt writing to Shimano for their suggestions would prove beneficial...and I assume that MOST shop mechanics today are 'too young' to even remember them-or how to adjust them! Most of the members here seem to be in the 'age group' that would have used them BITD...so I was hoping someone would offer me some help!? Thanks anyway... Bob
  22. This may sound dumb...but it's been YEARS since I built a bike! Getting ready to set up the rear brake on my Grandson's 'new' 1986 RL20A and I'd like some help... The caliper is an MX 1000 'knock off',the pads are Kool Stop Eagle 2's, and the lever is a 'real' DX! The lever is a '1 finger' model that has 2 adjust positions on the lever itself. This is the same 'system' I built on my 26" Nomura back in the early 80's,only I used a 'real' MX 1000 caliper then-and the brake worked great! I don't remember NOW how I set it up...I'm old...can anybody offer me any tips? Which 'adjust position' works best? The bike is 'NOT a racer',only a street beater...but I want the brake to work...and I want him to have confidence in his equipment! I chose this handle because I remember it worked well on my Nomura, and because the bike has 'knock off' CW-type bars...and other handles 'won't/don't' fit the bars OR 'look right!' I think the '1 finger' aspect will be easy for him to master as well! If any of you guys can offer me any tips on setting up this combination, I'd be grateful! Thanks in advance... Bob
  23. Vaseline works great to 'recondition baseball gloves'...don't see why it wouldn't work well on bike tires! Spread a medium-thick layer over the 'entire tire'-inside & out-and 'fold the tire' into a 'lazy figure 8' and put it into a king-sized pillow case and let it 'sit in the warm direct sunlight' for a couple of hours! Wipe it down completely-again,'inside & out'...and then check your work! Depending upon the 'overall condition' of your tire,you MIGHT have to 'do it again!' Obviously this can't be done unless there's 'warm sun light',so it's 'probably NOT a Winter project!' Whenever I re-condition a ball glove,I use a thick coating of Vaseline,and just throw the pillow case-tied in a knot to keep the glove inside-in the Dryer for 'a complete cycle' on LOW heat! When the glove is 'cooked' all that's needed is a thorough 'wipe down' with a clean soft rag! Do this 'once a season' and you'll be able to 'pass the glove on' to your son when he's in high school! One other thing,be sure to tie the pillow case in a knot with your tire as well... not to 'keep it in the bag'...but to 'keep the heat in!' DON'T put your tires in a clothes dryer...even on low heat! Too much threat of a fire...or 'breaking down' the rubber compound of the tires! Be patient and let the Sun 'do it's work!' Ciao... PS: Use a large flexible rubber band to 'hold the tire' in the 'lazy figure 8'...if your tire is small enough (20"?) to fit inside the pillow case without folding... then don't fold it... a 24" or 26" tire probably won't fit without folding! Do what works!
  24. Mr. Allin is right...if you plan to 're-anodize' the frame,by all means 'pay a shop to do the entire process!' May cost you a little bit extra up front...but the end result will be 'more rewarding' in the end!
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