Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Seller statistics

  • 0
  • 0
  • 0

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About biggiefl

  • Rank

Previous Fields

  • Spam Bot Control

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. 1977-79 or so Skway Tuff 1 pre-name and Pat-pending stamps. Pretty much mint.
  2. Been a few years...anyone have some pics, etc? What would this bike be worth today in a 8+ condition? I found this pic:
  3. Been a few years...anyone have some pics, etc? What would this bike be worth today in a 8+ condition?
  4. I started kinda early and ended about 1983 so I might be biased about what was cool and REALLY old school. ANYTHING with a chainguard or provision to mount one. ANYTHING with a kickstand or the hole it originally went into. ANYTHING with pastel or white colored parts..down with neon. ANYTHING that weighed more than about 22lbs ;) Motomags...or ANYTHING with coaster brakes(weight thing). ANYTHING with a single stem or a steel seatpost, etc ANYTHING from a department store(Kent, Murray, Huffy, etc) . Kidding aside on some of the above because it was truly old school and wish I had it today. I sold a set of MINT motomags off a Jag for $5 and was happy to get that back then. My friend had a MooseGoose and he was ridiculed by EVERYONE, wish my 38 yr old ass had one now. Never a fan of Predators being they were kinda "late" on the scene and heavy. Torkers were funny looking as well. When I started riding, 36/36's were the BOMB so that tells you something.
  5. My 1st real set of good tires were blue comp 2's. They wore out in like 3 months(mostly street and trails). I have since run comp 3's and still do today. I had a few snakebellies but they would trap dirt and fling it all over you, Mom did'nt like that. Snakebellies did last long as well as the fake comp 3 Cheng Shins. i think I had a set of IRC as well which looked like comp 2's.
  6. The blue tuff 1's should clean up without it and maybe the blue 2's with tires. The others, especially the reds are gonna need it unless you want to do a LOT of wet sanding. I used my bud's glass beader that was not exactly fresh on the beads so they were not as sharp. My tuffs were tan in color and came out yellow again but not great, yours should clean up nicer. I used yellow fusion paint and the look literally like new again. Depending on how well they clean up you can get away with armorall or for a semi perm finish I use penetrol which restores faded fiberglass. How yours look wet is how they will look finished with either product. Do not try armorall if you want to paint them unless on a small spot or it will be hard to clean them for paint later.
  7. Just finished up the schwinn scrambler and she is pretty mint! Wife said why not build another one since you you like it so much and it relaxes you...yeah boy! I will try and post pics, my she is sweet and thanks to those here at OS-BMX and at bmx museum for the parts to complete this 2 month project. Now my next project is going to be a Paterson or PK ripper...OK maybe a Thruster or ???? All my life I have done chrome & blue and next I think is going to be red or gold and red????. Anyone have a frame and fork???trade ya for for the schwinn.
  8. Got her painted in OEM candy blue. Located NOS yellow decals from some members here and at bmxmuseum....thanks guys. Now I am just waiting on my cranks/sprocket and she is done. Came out WAYYY nicer than expected, might have to keep her:) Anyone have a yellow "Schwinn Quality" seat post tube sticker?
  9. Every frame is different so you need to measure like KIW said above. A vice and thin punch work wonders if you do not have a link puller($15?)
  10. When I got my tuff I's the rear was set up to freewheel but it was not a good setup. I went to my local Schwinn dealer who had all the parts I needed for about $15. If you have the thing that says Bedix 76 or Suntour, etc, you will be able to find the brake sleaves, dust covers, etc at a Schwinn store. Spockets might be another story, I have a 19 tooth you can have for free if interested.
  11. Chrome frame...hell a dremel and that little steel wheel will take care of them but i agree on razor blade and some patience. Chrome is VERY hard to scratch or screw up.
  12. Too new school for me so I would say late 80's minimum, maybe early 90's.
  13. Depends on what you want to do with it. For $125 it is not a steal by any means unless it is a museum piece. I have a sweet 1980 Scrambler with Tuff 2's that I garbage picked but restoring it cost me about $100 And she was all there. Things add up as you know, hell the OEM decals set me back over $30. Chain was $12, pedals $15, pads $15, paint $20, etc much less the 20 hours or so I have in it. If you want it buy it but if you think it is worth $250 and you can double your money, don't buy it. Seat is not OEM, should have a banana as far as I know, especially if it has fenders.