Damn I love the internet...above, you can see I received a PM from the dude that built these wheels, and boy did he drop some knowledge. I received permission to repost what he said here:
I was shooting the breeze today about the bad old bike days, and decided if (I left the biz in '96) there was any evidence I'd existed. Enter the magic of Google. Well, you seem to own a unique bit of it. Those wheels were for my personal BMX bike which I built in the mid-80's. I was more of a road racer, but the shop (later 2) my partner and I owned also sponsored a BMX team in the Maryland Suburbs. But I figured I ought to play along so I built a Redline with a bunch of nice stuff on it. Couldn't ride worth a damn, and never caught enough air to give an ant a nosebleed. Still have a nice scar on my left shin from Hutch pedals though. Can't really remember where or when I sold the bike, but it was probably around '89.
Most of the wheels I built were for road bikes, and some track stuff. I can certainly tell you I didn't have any in the '84 games, but I did some support for riders at that level. Some of my wheels won medals (the secret is building them for fast riders) at the national level and may have gone to worlds but did not win there.
My philosophy was build strong, not tricky. I didn't really care for aero spokes, preferring DT straight gauge. With 14 gauge spokes and the right rim you could put some pretty beefy boys on 28 spoke wheels. Also like 3 cross as the best strength combination. Of course, wheel technology now has changed so much it's a whole other world.
But for those who appreciate retro, here's how I did it. Pick good durable rims. The heat treated stuff was just starting to come out at the time, and it made a big difference, the treatment kind of being a hard box over a softer core (think Samurai swords) I was partial to Mavic, but Ambrosio also made good stuff. Stayed away from light rims like Fiamme Yellow Labels, they were too soft. Next hubs. Liked Phils for BMX and Mountain bikes, but did mostly Campy for road.
Spokes... As mentioned liked DT stainless 14 gauge straight the best, very strong. Used one of the Specialized spoke length calculators to determine the exact size needed, plus you would use two different sizes on the rear (freewheel, non freewheel). Now the secret weapon. The Phil Wood spoke machine. It could cut and thread spokes to within 0.5 mm. So you only had to carry 1 very long size of spoke. I'd dip the threads in a mix of 50% Phil Oil and 50% Marvels Mystery Oil (just thought it was sort of mystical, other lube would probably have worked too) Using the exact size enabled you to get maxiumum thread engagement in the nipple at the same time you got maxiumum tension and trueness. After stressing the wheel a bit to seat the spokes, and re truing they could go a long way before you needed to touch them again. Had one set that made it 20K miles without retruing. If you really wanted to make them tough, tie and solder the last cross.
Glad there's still a pair I made out there. Thought you deserved a bit of the history. I might still have some of those stickers out in the shed.